Thursday, March 29, 2012

It's Time to get Technical

When it comes to shopping for apparel, everyone has that one item that is always difficult to find. Once it is found, the next challenge is keeping it from being used too much too fast. Personally, I have a difficult time finding the perfect shoe. Because I wear a size 5, I am usually in a pickle majority of the time as many stores are incapable of stocking their shelves with a size small enough to fit my baby feet. When I do find my size in a shoe that I actually like, their usable life is a short one that immediately puts me back to square one upon their disposal. In coming up with my design concept to extend the life of my perfect shoe, the technical metabolism concept of cradle to cradle was much more conceivable and more likely to be maintained in the life of a consumer.

Technical metabolism is a process of which a material is maintained and reusable through multiple product cycles in a closed-loop system. In this system, used materials can create new products or be used to replenish the lives of previously used products. In the apparel industry, I envision technical metabolism to be more feasible as far as actually being a method that is practiced religiously by consumers. This is due to the fact that we are currently in an economy that is focused on getting more “bang for your buck” when it comes to purchasing products. Consumers are constantly finding ways to save money and invest more carefully in the goods that they buy. So why not offer them a product with a concept that does just what they want? It is a simple notion that has yet to be recognized in the world of sustainability.

My idea of extending the life of my perfect size 5 shoe involves a shoe box made out of bound recycled materials that act as a sole replacement for when the first life of the pair of shoes is at an end. A shoe box is automatically thrown away upon purchasing a new pair of shoes, so it only makes sense to turn its composition into something that can be seen as an additional asset to the consumer. If the shoes are priced the same as they are now, the consumer would be paying for up to five lives of the product rather than the one. A nifty investment is being made in the mind of the consumer, and the manufacturing company is producing up to five less pairs of shoes. The way that it works, is the shoe box and the pair of shoes can be taken to either the store that they were initially purchased from or to a local shoe tailor where the box will be broken down into the necessary pieces to create the new soles. The old soles can be sent back to the manufacturer where new shoe boxes can be created, and the same method applies for the pair of shoes once every inch of the shoe box has been reused and there is no functionality left. The environment is happy with the food it is receiving from the waste of the shoe box, and the consumer is equally as happy with the extended life of their favorite pair of shoes.

In the reading, Cradle to Cradle, McDonough and Braungart point out examples where technical metabolism has been practiced within different industries over the decades. In the automobile industry, Henry Ford had his Model A trucks shipped in crates made of material that eventually became the vehicle’s floorboards upon being received at the dealerships. The interior design industry also demonstrated material reuse when a new carpet design composed of a bottom layer and detachable top was made available to consumers wishing to replace their carpeting. It was these cases that inspired me to come up with my idea of a sole replacement shoe box since they display mutually beneficial products while extending the practice of innovation.

The video this week also got my creative juices flowing when the concept of technical metabolism was brought up. It was explained that technical metabolism focused on the service of the product, or how the service can be replenished upon end use of the product. The nutrients of the product is recaptured within its own cycle, rather than being a source of direct nourishment to the environment. The piece of recyclable fabric that was created by Rohner Textile mill in Switzerland was compressed with used fibers and materials to form a strong, new piece of fabric. This concept inspired my idea for a durable material to construct the shoe box that will be equally as durable for the replacement of shoe soles. The picture below is a rough sketch of the way that the material used for the shoe boxes would look, without the addition of recycled fibers from used clothing.

My idea highlights on some previously discussed issues within the apparel industry, such as overconsumption, disposal, and problems associated with fiber processing. Overconsumption would not be an issue if my idea were adopted since consumers would not be enticed to make as many shoe purchases. The disposal issue is taken care of since the shoe box’s materials would be entirely used up to replace the soles of the shoes as necessary. Waste virtually doesn’t exist. Fiber processing and production would be constructed with the mindset that it may eventually be compressed into the material used to construct a shoe box with dual purposes. The entire process of my idea is a feasible one, and would make many steps in the right direction toward satisfying both the human race and the environment. Even though finding the perfect shoe seems impossible, we have the capability of making it possible on multiple occasions.
Picture: http://www.core77.com/blog/exhibitions/material_connexion_thai_materials_exhibition_photos_new_york_20074.asp

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Don't Hate, Appreciate!

This week as I read about the applications of Biomimicry and Industrial Ecology within the environment, I couldn’t help but to visualize this concept through another set of eyes, a dog’s. Growing up, many families supply their kids with pets to play with to accompany them throughout their childhood. I was one of these kids. Below is a picture of my dog, Haley, who is a 10 year old miniature Beagle. Haley has never demanded much in her life, just love, food, and water. Her existence can be maintained through cooperation from us as owners, and through giving her the necessary resources for survival as she needs them. These are the two principles that I have used this week to support my design concept of a policy that enhances a greater appreciation for nature in moving toward a sustainable future. If we can give nature the same love and support that we give to our pets, then a stronger relationship can and will be established that will set us up to achieve our goals in the apparel and textile industry.


The principle of diversifying and cooperating strongly helped me come to my idea of the development of nature appreciation. Benyus makes a great point within this segment where she says, “…cooperation seems to be just as important as competition”. I fully agree to this statement, especially as I view it through the eyes of Haley. Together, our cooperation enhances our survival which is bound to last longer as a result. If we look at nature in this same light, there are many instances where the apparel and textile industry can benefit more from utilizing nature’s resources. An example, brought up by Bradley Quinn in Textile Futures: Fashion, Design and Technology where this cooperative relationship deemed successful results, was the LZR Racer suit launched by Speedo in 2008. This product was made from fabric that was inspired by the skins of sharks, dolphins, and porpoises. The design of the LZR Racer suit had an impact on all kinds of sportswear, making all-in-one-suits, seamless surfaces, and polyurethane coatings more common features in this design category. Through the simple analysis of what nature could offer in terms of sustainability, a new line of products was created that brought benefits to both sides of the dual partnership.
The principle of not drawing down resources also contributed to my idea of the development of nature appreciation. Once again, Benyus makes a strong point about “…allowing renewable stock to renew itself” rather than using resources faster than they can regenerate. In healthily raising Haley, my family made sure to not oversupply her with food or nourishments unless promptly needed. Along the way, we even switched around her eating diet to ensure that certain resources could be properly replaced and maintained. The awareness of this concept is a first step toward developing a relationship with nature. This is an extremely important theme to grasp, especially within each individual community. Resources are strictly locational, and according to Kate Fletcher in Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys, “truly local products are rare and getting rarer”. This is why developing a relationship between humans and nature is so important if we plan to continue creating products within our industry! We have to recognize the signs within nature that a mutually beneficial connection is key to sustainability.
Suzanne Lee does a fantastic job of proving her understanding of this concept by creating fabric from growing bacterial cellulose. Her initiative, BioCouture, promotes sustainable fashions that are eco-friendly throughout every stage of their production. It starts with a tea and sugar solution that, after extracted and dried, behaves like a nonwoven textile that can be cut out or sewn to form a garment. Not only is this design concept innovative, it proves that appreciating nature and utilizing its resources can bring us one step closer to creating entirely sustainable products. She is a prime example of someone who listened to nature’s cry, and sought out a solution that would benefit both sides of the relationship.
My design concept of a policy that enhances a greater appreciation for nature through cooperation and the avoidance of drawing down resources is one that can bring about significant change if approached correctly. A great start is to think about the love and emotion you have in wearing a product that you yourself created, such as a piece of jewelry or a jacket. Since you put in the time and effort in its creation, you appreciate it that much more. The concept of utilizing nature’s resources in our production processes can create this same set of feelings, and even more so since you know that the environment is benefitting from it too. Nature isn’t resistant to change and is willing to advance forward, but now it is up to us. The same type of fulfilling life that Haley is living can be mimicked within our world if we choose to establish an understanding and mutually beneficial relationship between ourselves and nature.

Friday, March 9, 2012

Less Talk, More Action

On a beautiful and hot summer day, we all enjoy time outside to soak in the sun, walk our pets, or drive around town with the windows rolled down. On those days, nothing can break the high that we get from enjoying what Mother Nature has so lovingly offered us. So why is it so difficult of a task for us to return the favor? We are great at taking advantage of the resources of the earth, but rarely do we give back to the source that creates such conditions that are necessary for life. I have developed a design concept that will guide the replenishment of the earth’s resources instead of the disposal of them. My idea is based around the important concepts of industrial ecology, as defined by Graedel and Allenby in Industrial Ecology, where no resource is wasted, and a stronger, more stable industry blooms.

Looking back on many of the research and readings up to this point in the course, it is obvious that overconsumption and quick turnover is a major industry problem when it comes to apparel use and disposal. Overconsumption stems from the desires of materialistic consumers who continuously crave bigger and better products.  As a result, turnover is extremely rapid, bringing about an excess of materials and resources of which we aren’t really sure what to do with. And thus this consumption cycle starts over again, as soon as the consumer invests more money into another item. I am confident that a promising solution to this problem is through new advertising and merchandising techniques that will reach consumers in a more resourceful and beneficial way. This design concept will transform our society into one that realizes the importance of product maintenance, and the impact that it has on the environment.

My design concept would not be supported without certain principles to hold it in place. As I read a chapter in Benyus’s book entitled, Closing the Loops in Commerce: Running a Business like a Redwood Forest, her many “conditions conducive to life” ultimately helped me to form my design concept, as it seemed directly compatible to what I hope to trigger in consumers for the future.

The first principle is using waste as a resource. I couldn’t help but to apply what was discussed in this segment to the apparel industry, as it highlights the inner circulation of resources rather than exchanging them with the outside environment. There is no better way to promote this concept aside from advertising to the public that it IS possible to accomplish. In addition, merchandising can also be used to visually demonstrate to consumers the least complicated way to turn our used garments into something sustainable.

The second principle that moved me is about using energy more efficiently within production and consumption patterns. In the apparel industry, so much energy is put into designing the product, transporting it to retailers, and encouraging the consumer to buy it. If this amount of energy can be more contained throughout the process, we can maximize time and rewards while minimizing energy costs. Through seeking out ways to begin and end this consumption process in a smart way rather than the hard way, a more sustainable environment can and will be created. It simply takes encouragement and direction through more efficient advertising and merchandising.

The third principle centers on optimizing rather than maximizing when it comes to product turnover. This concept extends the process of maximizing our time and rewards further by encouraging consumers to be sure of their sustainable efforts once they have performed them. Rewarding product users for being efficient and taking the time to learn how to do more with less, is crucial in keeping the sustainable cycle going. Once again, advertising and merchandising come into play through offering incentives to consumers who are re-using their items and highlighting the benefits of doing so. In this aspect, having tighter control over consumers will lead to less fluctuation in their practices.

The last principle that supports my idea concept includes run on information. This is where the idea of advertising comes into play. Rich communication channels have the ability to carry information within a community, which is likely to influence actions. Benyus explains that numerous and redundant messages rather than one universal message throughout a community is going to build acceptance and eventually adoption of an idea or concept. Within the apparel industry, we constantly see advertisements that encourage us to invest in products that are new, fresh, and popular. Celebrity endorsement within advertising also triggers our desire to consume more. If sustainability was as strongly advertised as the concept to devour goods that we probably don’t really need, our environment would be free of harm!

My design concept to guide the replenishment of the earth’s resources rather than the disposal of them through new advertising and merchandising techniques is one that I am sure will be most beneficial in reaching consumers. Mainstreaming each principle that supports my concept idea promises to “change the way we make, sell, market, and buy everything”, according to Benyus’s outlook. The path to sustainability has already been paved for us through the example set by Mother Nature, and it is now up to us as consumers to follow it and take part in the transformation. It is time to stop talking about ways to be sustainable, and put our words into actions!