Fashion is Power

Those outside of the fashion industry seem to have a difficult time genuinely understanding the power behind the “material” items that we spend countless hours designing, creating, and promoting for a living. When people ask what I am majoring in here at OSU, I confidently tell them despite knowing that they are probably thinking it is risky and most likely leading to nowhere as far as a career. What they are unaware of however, is that fashion is THE most powerful means of communication that we have in our lives today. Fashion satisfies our human need of identity, giving us the opportunity to express our individual selves while emphasizing our desire to be accepted into a collective group membership. Without people like me to pursue fashion as a career, society would have a much harder time figuring out how to express this vital human need. In coming up with my design concept this week, I combined the human need for identity with the issue of gender equality and the empowerment of women. My concept is based around providing women with the luxury of designing their own apparel that they believe will boost their self-esteem and enhance their authoritative image within the work place.

Fashion is more strongly a woman-based industry to begin with, so it is only fitting to focus my design concept to that particular consumer group. As a woman, I am notorious for being an over-consumer as I am constantly buying clothes that I already have multiples of in the same style but in different colors. An over-consumer is defined as someone who consumes a resource in excess. As a result, environmental degradation occurs and resources and materials are harder to replace. According to Fuad-Luke, transforming cultural perceptions about sustainability is crucial to developing positive solutions among society. Without altering consumer behavior, society is going to be much more resistant to change. And change is necessary if we hope to create a world more focused on sustainability.

Design activism, or “issue-led design,” is focused on creating entirely new products based on satisfying our needs as consumers. The issue of gender equality and the empowerment of women is the inspiration of my design concept, which is providing women with the empowerment and feeling of acceptance that they deserve in today’s corporate work environment. The work suit is the most commanding article of clothing that a woman can own. Therefore, I am giving this consumer group an opportunity to design their own eco-friendly suit out of recyclable materials via an online database. The suits can be made with unique appliques or a range of layers that can be shed on the outer layers of the jacket in order to prolong product use and postpone product replacement. Before gaining access to the online site, the women will be instructed to complete a survey that will lightly educate them on information regarding textile waste and environmental impact of material production and consumption. I hope that this will inspire them to do more sustainable research on their own and extend this unique concept to others. Fuad-Luke’s explanation of “halfway products” also inspired my design concept, as products are made with room left for the user to complete the making. The user then has their own matchless creativity to differentiate their work suit from others, satisfying their need of self-identity. Knowing who you are as a person and being confident in what you can bring to the table is what women in the work force must have in order to be seen as equals in executive decisions. Through offering them the chance to customize what they wear in a way so that aggressiveness and control is communicated, a positive change within society is formed.

The graph below was found on The Bureau of Labor Statistics website, and shows the substantial progress being made toward relative equality in the work force between men and women. As you can see, it is also slowing down the closer that we get to equality. I believe that the process can be accelerated if women took the initiative to communicate their power based on what fashion can provide.

A customized, eco-friendly work suit for women is only the start to improving the world of sustainability. Moving beyond form and function and promoting more powerful and emotional relationships with the objects that we consume is the key to halting overconsumption, according to Faud-Luke. It is also a promising start to changing the near future. Fashion is the answer for women to speak up and demand the respect that we deserve from men both inside and outside of the working world. So let’s start talking, ladies.

In this course, I believe that the most important thing I learned is that change is ultimately up to us. We have the power to put the concept of sustainability in motion, and until we do it is only going to get worse. There is an ample amount of information and suggestions to adopting a different lifestyle when it comes to production and consumption, but it has to be collectively adopted. With this knowledge, I plan to continue to research and find ways that I can contribute to this movement toward a more sustainable earth. I also want to educate others with what I have learned so that they become more aware of the severity of the situation and how simple it could be to resolve. Now that I have taken this course, I would like to learn more about how I could potentially market the sustainable concept in an effective and inspiring way. I feel as though there isn’t enough promotion and education regarding a greener environment, and so I would like to learn how to do so in a way that will lead designers and consumers to take action.

Save the Suits!

It’s that time of the year again when the weather is steadily getting warmer, shorts are coming out from the bottom of our drawers, and relaxing poolside is drawing nearer. Summer time is one of the best times, but with it comes minor environmental setbacks. When signs of the summer season are approaching, the first thing that I think of to do is to go shopping for a brand new swimsuit. Despite having about five other perfectly usable suits already, shopping for swimsuits is like shopping for a new wardrobe. Styles, colors, and cuts change drastically from one season to the next. To address this inevitable situation, I have come up with a new design concept to transform our used bathing suits into bracelets that are the perfect summer accessory.

My design concept once again utilizes the technical metabolism concept from cradle to cradle, which is a process of which a material is maintained and reusable through multiple product cycles in a closed-loop system. In this system, used materials can create new products or be used to replenish the lives of previously used products. In my idea of creating bracelets out of swimsuits, an entirely new product is made that is eliminating excessive waste and providing consumers with an eco-friendly way to sport a new fashion trend. This idea also will appeal to those consumers who refuse go the extra mile to recycle their used products since it gives them a personal incentive, an addition to their wardrobe. If you are even remotely interested in fashion, then you possess an internal knack for innovativeness and creativity. These unique characteristics can continue to flourish in a way that benefits both us and our environment in this technological process.

My idea of transforming used bathing suits into bracelets involves one item: a pair of scissors. In order to create the bracelet that appeals to you, simply cut a strip of the fabric into a length long enough to wrap around your wrist. To resemble the current bracelet-stacking trend, the swimsuit fabric can be wrapped around the wrist as many times as is desired. Once a solid length is determined, the fabric can be easily knotted and excess fabric at the ends can be snipped. Most swimsuits today are made out of synthetic materials including polyester, nylon, and spandex. Since these are not the most environmentally-friendly materials upon disposal, turning them into a new product such as the bracelets is a great first step to decreasing their overwhelming production amounts. These fibers are also known for durability, which means that the bracelets can be worn for multiple summer seasons. The picture below shows an example of how the bracelets could look depending on the colors of the used swimsuit.

In the reading, Cradle to Cradle, McDonough and Braungart point out that it is less expensive for industries to make new products to be shipped out than it is to build up infrastructures to process the used items themselves. Basically, the time that it takes each individual or “industry” to make new products from the old is insignificant to the time and money that our economy will spend to create foundations or “industries” that will do it for us. Making these bracelets is a direct way for us as citizens to assist in saving expenditures in the long run, opening up even more opportunity for the apparel business. McDonough and Braungart also explain the notion of a technical nutrient and what it means to be a “product of service” rather than something that is bought, used, and thrown away. Consumers of fashion items are seeking something that they can enjoy, and my idea of the swimsuit bracelets achieves that exact hope while capitalizing on sustainability.

In Textile Futures, Quinn brings up a process called “resurfacing” that is a collective approach to reprocess discarded fabrics using studio-based and digital practices. This new method was adopted early by London-based designer Becky Earley, who performs reprinting on used fashion textiles. While my swimsuit bracelets do not involve technological expertise, her idea to transform used materials into something wearable again inspired me to think along those lines. Kate Goldsworthy, also a London-based designer, ponders the thought of a future that has a “rediscovered delight in the value of recycled resources”. Kate’s analysis of sustainability in textiles also inspired me to think of an idea that would ignite this same delight within swimsuit consumers.

The reading C2CAD, emphasizes collaborative approaches to sustainability in textiles and how important it is to share knowledge and resources. The fashion industry is one where unique ideas are exchanged between many people to come up with a single trend or an entire clothing line. Sustainability can be achieved just as easily if communication regarding eco-friendly production efforts were discussed as often. My idea starts with the bracelets, but can be expanded to chokers, headbands, or ankle bracelets by collaborating with others and sharing thoughts. The apparel design process as defined by Gam of problem definition and research, creative exploration, and implementation is only successful in a cooperative environment.

My idea of transforming used bathing suits into bracelets will address the overconsumption and disposal problems we as consumers constantly battle. It will also jolt the creative and collaborative juices necessary in order to be successful in our ecological efforts. The concept of sustainability is really very similar to how simple it is to transform swimsuits to bracelets: it requires little effort and leads to bigger opportunities.

Picture: http://www.google.com/imgres

It's Time to get Technical

When it comes to shopping for apparel, everyone has that one item that is always difficult to find. Once it is found, the next challenge is keeping it from being used too much too fast. Personally, I have a difficult time finding the perfect shoe. Because I wear a size 5, I am usually in a pickle majority of the time as many stores are incapable of stocking their shelves with a size small enough to fit my baby feet. When I do find my size in a shoe that I actually like, their usable life is a short one that immediately puts me back to square one upon their disposal. In coming up with my design concept to extend the life of my perfect shoe, the technical metabolism concept of cradle to cradle was much more conceivable and more likely to be maintained in the life of a consumer.

Technical metabolism is a process of which a material is maintained and reusable through multiple product cycles in a closed-loop system. In this system, used materials can create new products or be used to replenish the lives of previously used products. In the apparel industry, I envision technical metabolism to be more feasible as far as actually being a method that is practiced religiously by consumers. This is due to the fact that we are currently in an economy that is focused on getting more “bang for your buck” when it comes to purchasing products. Consumers are constantly finding ways to save money and invest more carefully in the goods that they buy. So why not offer them a product with a concept that does just what they want? It is a simple notion that has yet to be recognized in the world of sustainability.

My idea of extending the life of my perfect size 5 shoe involves a shoe box made out of bound recycled materials that act as a sole replacement for when the first life of the pair of shoes is at an end. A shoe box is automatically thrown away upon purchasing a new pair of shoes, so it only makes sense to turn its composition into something that can be seen as an additional asset to the consumer. If the shoes are priced the same as they are now, the consumer would be paying for up to five lives of the product rather than the one. A nifty investment is being made in the mind of the consumer, and the manufacturing company is producing up to five less pairs of shoes. The way that it works, is the shoe box and the pair of shoes can be taken to either the store that they were initially purchased from or to a local shoe tailor where the box will be broken down into the necessary pieces to create the new soles. The old soles can be sent back to the manufacturer where new shoe boxes can be created, and the same method applies for the pair of shoes once every inch of the shoe box has been reused and there is no functionality left. The environment is happy with the food it is receiving from the waste of the shoe box, and the consumer is equally as happy with the extended life of their favorite pair of shoes.

In the reading, Cradle to Cradle, McDonough and Braungart point out examples where technical metabolism has been practiced within different industries over the decades. In the automobile industry, Henry Ford had his Model A trucks shipped in crates made of material that eventually became the vehicle’s floorboards upon being received at the dealerships. The interior design industry also demonstrated material reuse when a new carpet design composed of a bottom layer and detachable top was made available to consumers wishing to replace their carpeting. It was these cases that inspired me to come up with my idea of a sole replacement shoe box since they display mutually beneficial products while extending the practice of innovation.

The video this week also got my creative juices flowing when the concept of technical metabolism was brought up. It was explained that technical metabolism focused on the service of the product, or how the service can be replenished upon end use of the product. The nutrients of the product is recaptured within its own cycle, rather than being a source of direct nourishment to the environment. The piece of recyclable fabric that was created by Rohner Textile mill in Switzerland was compressed with used fibers and materials to form a strong, new piece of fabric. This concept inspired my idea for a durable material to construct the shoe box that will be equally as durable for the replacement of shoe soles. The picture below is a rough sketch of the way that the material used for the shoe boxes would look, without the addition of recycled fibers from used clothing.

My idea highlights on some previously discussed issues within the apparel industry, such as overconsumption, disposal, and problems associated with fiber processing. Overconsumption would not be an issue if my idea were adopted since consumers would not be enticed to make as many shoe purchases. The disposal issue is taken care of since the shoe box’s materials would be entirely used up to replace the soles of the shoes as necessary. Waste virtually doesn’t exist. Fiber processing and production would be constructed with the mindset that it may eventually be compressed into the material used to construct a shoe box with dual purposes. The entire process of my idea is a feasible one, and would make many steps in the right direction toward satisfying both the human race and the environment. Even though finding the perfect shoe seems impossible, we have the capability of making it possible on multiple occasions.

Picture: http://www.core77.com/blog/exhibitions/material_connexion_thai_materials_exhibition_photos_new_york_20074.asp

Don't Hate, Appreciate!

This week as I read about the applications of Biomimicry and Industrial Ecology within the environment, I couldn’t help but to visualize this concept through another set of eyes, a dog’s. Growing up, many families supply their kids with pets to play with to accompany them throughout their childhood. I was one of these kids. Below is a picture of my dog, Haley, who is a 10 year old miniature Beagle. Haley has never demanded much in her life, just love, food, and water. Her existence can be maintained through cooperation from us as owners, and through giving her the necessary resources for survival as she needs them. These are the two principles that I have used this week to support my design concept of a policy that enhances a greater appreciation for nature in moving toward a sustainable future. If we can give nature the same love and support that we give to our pets, then a stronger relationship can and will be established that will set us up to achieve our goals in the apparel and textile industry.



The principle of diversifying and cooperating strongly helped me come to my idea of the development of nature appreciation. Benyus makes a great point within this segment where she says, “…cooperation seems to be just as important as competition”. I fully agree to this statement, especially as I view it through the eyes of Haley. Together, our cooperation enhances our survival which is bound to last longer as a result. If we look at nature in this same light, there are many instances where the apparel and textile industry can benefit more from utilizing nature’s resources. An example, brought up by Bradley Quinn in Textile Futures: Fashion, Design and Technology where this cooperative relationship deemed successful results, was the LZR Racer suit launched by Speedo in 2008. This product was made from fabric that was inspired by the skins of sharks, dolphins, and porpoises. The design of the LZR Racer suit had an impact on all kinds of sportswear, making all-in-one-suits, seamless surfaces, and polyurethane coatings more common features in this design category. Through the simple analysis of what nature could offer in terms of sustainability, a new line of products was created that brought benefits to both sides of the dual partnership.

The principle of not drawing down resources also contributed to my idea of the development of nature appreciation. Once again, Benyus makes a strong point about “…allowing renewable stock to renew itself” rather than using resources faster than they can regenerate. In healthily raising Haley, my family made sure to not oversupply her with food or nourishments unless promptly needed. Along the way, we even switched around her eating diet to ensure that certain resources could be properly replaced and maintained. The awareness of this concept is a first step toward developing a relationship with nature. This is an extremely important theme to grasp, especially within each individual community. Resources are strictly locational, and according to Kate Fletcher in Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys, “truly local products are rare and getting rarer”. This is why developing a relationship between humans and nature is so important if we plan to continue creating products within our industry! We have to recognize the signs within nature that a mutually beneficial connection is key to sustainability.

Suzanne Lee does a fantastic job of proving her understanding of this concept by creating fabric from growing bacterial cellulose. Her initiative, BioCouture, promotes sustainable fashions that are eco-friendly throughout every stage of their production. It starts with a tea and sugar solution that, after extracted and dried, behaves like a nonwoven textile that can be cut out or sewn to form a garment. Not only is this design concept innovative, it proves that appreciating nature and utilizing its resources can bring us one step closer to creating entirely sustainable products. She is a prime example of someone who listened to nature’s cry, and sought out a solution that would benefit both sides of the relationship.

My design concept of a policy that enhances a greater appreciation for nature through cooperation and the avoidance of drawing down resources is one that can bring about significant change if approached correctly. A great start is to think about the love and emotion you have in wearing a product that you yourself created, such as a piece of jewelry or a jacket. Since you put in the time and effort in its creation, you appreciate it that much more. The concept of utilizing nature’s resources in our production processes can create this same set of feelings, and even more so since you know that the environment is benefitting from it too. Nature isn’t resistant to change and is willing to advance forward, but now it is up to us. The same type of fulfilling life that Haley is living can be mimicked within our world if we choose to establish an understanding and mutually beneficial relationship between ourselves and nature.

Less Talk, More Action

On a beautiful and hot summer day, we all enjoy time outside to soak in the sun, walk our pets, or drive around town with the windows rolled down. On those days, nothing can break the high that we get from enjoying what Mother Nature has so lovingly offered us. So why is it so difficult of a task for us to return the favor? We are great at taking advantage of the resources of the earth, but rarely do we give back to the source that creates such conditions that are necessary for life. I have developed a design concept that will guide the replenishment of the earth’s resources instead of the disposal of them. My idea is based around the important concepts of industrial ecology, as defined by Graedel and Allenby in Industrial Ecology, where no resource is wasted, and a stronger, more stable industry blooms.

Looking back on many of the research and readings up to this point in the course, it is obvious that overconsumption and quick turnover is a major industry problem when it comes to apparel use and disposal. Overconsumption stems from the desires of materialistic consumers who continuously crave bigger and better products.  As a result, turnover is extremely rapid, bringing about an excess of materials and resources of which we aren’t really sure what to do with. And thus this consumption cycle starts over again, as soon as the consumer invests more money into another item. I am confident that a promising solution to this problem is through new advertising and merchandising techniques that will reach consumers in a more resourceful and beneficial way. This design concept will transform our society into one that realizes the importance of product maintenance, and the impact that it has on the environment.

My design concept would not be supported without certain principles to hold it in place. As I read a chapter in Benyus’s book entitled, Closing the Loops in Commerce: Running a Business like a Redwood Forest, her many “conditions conducive to life” ultimately helped me to form my design concept, as it seemed directly compatible to what I hope to trigger in consumers for the future.

The first principle is using waste as a resource. I couldn’t help but to apply what was discussed in this segment to the apparel industry, as it highlights the inner circulation of resources rather than exchanging them with the outside environment. There is no better way to promote this concept aside from advertising to the public that it IS possible to accomplish. In addition, merchandising can also be used to visually demonstrate to consumers the least complicated way to turn our used garments into something sustainable.

The second principle that moved me is about using energy more efficiently within production and consumption patterns. In the apparel industry, so much energy is put into designing the product, transporting it to retailers, and encouraging the consumer to buy it. If this amount of energy can be more contained throughout the process, we can maximize time and rewards while minimizing energy costs. Through seeking out ways to begin and end this consumption process in a smart way rather than the hard way, a more sustainable environment can and will be created. It simply takes encouragement and direction through more efficient advertising and merchandising.

The third principle centers on optimizing rather than maximizing when it comes to product turnover. This concept extends the process of maximizing our time and rewards further by encouraging consumers to be sure of their sustainable efforts once they have performed them. Rewarding product users for being efficient and taking the time to learn how to do more with less, is crucial in keeping the sustainable cycle going. Once again, advertising and merchandising come into play through offering incentives to consumers who are re-using their items and highlighting the benefits of doing so. In this aspect, having tighter control over consumers will lead to less fluctuation in their practices.

The last principle that supports my idea concept includes run on information. This is where the idea of advertising comes into play. Rich communication channels have the ability to carry information within a community, which is likely to influence actions. Benyus explains that numerous and redundant messages rather than one universal message throughout a community is going to build acceptance and eventually adoption of an idea or concept. Within the apparel industry, we constantly see advertisements that encourage us to invest in products that are new, fresh, and popular. Celebrity endorsement within advertising also triggers our desire to consume more. If sustainability was as strongly advertised as the concept to devour goods that we probably don’t really need, our environment would be free of harm!

My design concept to guide the replenishment of the earth’s resources rather than the disposal of them through new advertising and merchandising techniques is one that I am sure will be most beneficial in reaching consumers. Mainstreaming each principle that supports my concept idea promises to “change the way we make, sell, market, and buy everything”, according to Benyus’s outlook. The path to sustainability has already been paved for us through the example set by Mother Nature, and it is now up to us as consumers to follow it and take part in the transformation. It is time to stop talking about ways to be sustainable, and put our words into actions!

If I Ruled the World...

Everyone’s perception of the world around them differs in many ways, as is assumed through the variety of cultures in existence across the globe. An individual’s culture can explain a lot about how someone envisions a possible future based on their state of existence both in the past and present. Because of this, grasping one universal vision from the massive human race is overwhelmingly impossible. After reflecting on my own capacity for future consciousness, I am able to imagine a world where sustainability is the ONLY “cool” thing to do, and people are undertaking anything and everything they can to be socially accepted.

As a student having studied the apparel industry for the past few years, I feel confident in saying that most of us focus on optimism in how we view the stories and outcomes of life. In Thinking Ahead: The Value of Future Consciousness, psychologist Martin Seligman argues that “the belief that one can positively affect the future is critical to optimistic thinking”. The apparel industry is wholeheartedly about affecting the future in as many positive ways possible, starting with individually impacting consumers. People within this industry also have high self-efficacy, since setting goals and not giving up are crucial qualities to possess. Falling under the optimism category, I am 100% hopeful that we are in charge and capable of impacting our environment in a positive way for the future.

On the down side, being optimistic and hopeful can only go so far when it comes to actually eliciting a worldwide transformation. Even in analyzing my future consciousness for a sustainable future, I realized that there were some things that I would have to change personally in order for my optimism to stabilize. For one, I do believe in a higher external force that also contributes to what is yet to come. While I do not wish to change this belief, I do understand that I will have to incorporate it into whatever ultimately ends up happening to our environment. I do notice that believing in this higher external force however, can bring about more negative emotional states which could put a damper on my positivity for the future. Therefore, keeping these negative states in check in order to continue down my vision’s path is an important change to make. Another mindset that will need some minor adjustments has to do with viewing the human population as a whole. At times, it is hard for me to visualize a hopeful future when I have little to no faith in those around me to also practice optimism and work toward making a change. In Thinking Ahead: The Value of Future Consciousness, increased empowerment is defined by “expanded foresight, goal setting, planning, and goal-directed behavior”. Each of these defining characteristics is without a doubt lacking among people today for reasons beyond what I can understand. Laziness is taking its toll within our society, and unfortunately on my optimism as well. Visioneering: an essential framework in sustainability science points out that a sustainable future will require a “purpose-driven transformation of society”. How can society’s transformation have a purpose and be driven and goal-oriented if we ourselves aren’t? Hopefully these impeding issues will be able to change overtime, making my vision for a sustainable future something achievable.

My first thought when trying to define my vision for a sustainable future was to limit consumption of product users. However as I pondered the idea more, I came to the realization that I am seeking a career in a field that profits from the overconsumption of consumers! My future would not be sustainable at all if my industry was unable to make any profits due to limitations. The reading Limiting Consumption: Toward a Sustainable Culture focused primarily on aspects of overconsumption and how it affects the human race as well as the environment. Apparently, “the percentage of Americans who report that they are ‘very happy’ has been relatively stable since 1957, despite phenomenal growth in consumption”. In my opinion, the reason for this stagnation also has to do with the downfalls of the economy that are causing overall dissatisfaction among product users who are desperately seeking any amount of disposable income. Realistically however, consumption levels are most likely not going to change much within society now or in the future.  In switching my train of thought, I concluded that my vision of a sustainable future resembled more efforts toward creating efficient technology and advertisements. The basic principle of my vision is going to continue to guide consumers down the path of what is “cool”, but this time in a sustainable light rather than the opposite. The concept is simple: make sustainable efforts more mainstream through encouraging the practice of sustainability rather than making it seem like an option that is available if consumers choose to do so. Ultimately, sustainability is the ONLY option. Because technology and advertisements make such strong impacts on generations today, they are prime targets in transforming consumption patterns of people. Making changes in technology was a key topic in the video 2057: The World, where the chemical composition of solar panels was being altered to preserve the limitless use of solar energy.

The “Social Trap” mental mode of ‘everybody else is doing it, so why shouldn’t I’? combined with the “collective action” approach is what led me to formulate my vision. In addition to overconsumption not being likely to subside, the basic human need to conform is also going to be ingrained within society for years to come. For that reason, if sustainability can be enforced more heavily throughout society as something that is more mainstream, people will be forced to follow. In addition to adopting such mental modes to bring about my vision of popularizing the efficient consumption for the future, some will also have to give up the desire to be a unique distinction from others around them. Having this mindset would not benefit my vision, and would ultimately bring us right back to where we are currently. We have to focus on popular group conformation in order make the sustainable footprint that my vision hopes for.

Communicating and engaging others in my vision is going to be the challenge, since my vision is almost the complete opposite of what consumers are practicing today. That is, following a path down the popularized unsustainable road, that suggests more negatives over positives when it comes to adopting ecological practices. However, I do believe that making my vision a reality will be easily obtainable if I am able to educate those within the technology and advertising industries about how they will benefit from creating a new band of followers. Through innovation and fresh ideas regarding sustainability, consumers will be intrigued by what new products are being created and promoted. After all, that is a lot like how our society is today. Now if we can only shift gears toward adopting a more sustainable lifestyle through letting go of historical tradition, taking more risks, and having more faith in others, our complete community will transform into following a path where sustainability is commonplace.

The Face behind the Masked "Brands" of Today

It is more than apparent that products within the apparel industry today are represented on the basis of “eco-friendly” and “organic” production methods. But how do we as consumers really know whether or not a product was produced in an environmentally-conscious way? Do the terms “eco-friendly” and “organic” actually mean anything to consumers? To me personally, these words are “fluff” words with no substance or real meaning. I feel confident in saying that the majority of consumers most likely feel the exact same way. While we all know that purchasing more environmentally-friendly products is the “right” thing to do, we are not willing to invest our hard earned money or precious time into anything beyond what we are comfortable with. So, how can companies persuade consumers that the extra money and time is worth it? It turns out that honesty is actually the key when it comes to successful selling through advertising and promotion.

The definition of eco-promising, according to Eco-promising: Communicating the environmental credentials of your products and services is the practice of making claims about the environmental attributes of products. These so-called eco-promises can include anything from pictures, to direct claims, to symbols and labels. They also focus on a particular issue, input characteristics, or third-party labels. With the wide variety of false product claims floating around the industry today, it is easy to see how consumers tend to lose sight of reality upon exposure. Supposedly from the start of the 1970s to present-day, eco-promising strategies have developed more sophisticated approaches to reaching the consumer market. These sophisticated strategies are centered more on being descriptive and open as to product composition and production, and less on promoting the exterior “fluff”. This more detailed approach in advertising products seems to provide consumers with the perception that the company is serving their best interests. But are they really? According to the reading, there are numerous obstacles to face when eco-promising comes into play. The one obstacle that I felt as though I related to as a shopper was the risk of the “confused consumer”. Without any universally accepted definitions, specific terms are virtually meaningless. As a result, consumers choose to buy the brand that does not have “organic” written ten times on the package because what does that even really mean anyways? Furthermore, the higher price of these “organic” products when faced with consumers ready to purchase causes instant un-attraction. At this point, there seems to be no middle ground upon which a compromise can be made.

To confuse consumers even more, the concept of “greenwashing” is overtaking advertisements of all kinds of products and services. The definition of greenwashing, according to The greenwash guide is an unsubstantiated environmental claim found in advertising that ultimately undermines consumers’ confidence in their purchasing choices as they no longer know who or what to believe. From featuring un-credible sources, the lack of proof, or irrelevant claims, greenwashing can be seen in many different forms. It can be hard to tell a good product claim example from a bad one, but greenwashing can be avoided by taking the time to accurately inspect the advertisement.

Below is an illustration of a bad product claim example from a website found on the Eco Fashion World database:

URL: http://www.hoodlamb.com/wintersite/index.html

This ladies fleece miniskirt has a very poor description of what dictates its “organic” composition. In addition, there are no certified labels anywhere on this ad or throughout this organization’s website. If I came across this product as a consumer, I would take my money elsewhere as I would not be convinced.

On the other hand, the next example shown below is an illustration of a good product claim example from a website also found on the Eco Fashion World database:

URL: http://www.bagthehabit.com/shop_bags

This ad does a much better job at explaining how these reusable produce bags are produced organically with the environment in mind. It provides clear and specific product production details and includes other examples of products with the same concept at work. In addition, the home page of this website provided a list of custom design partners including third-party labels. The strong presentation of information along with the honest feeling of the ad provokes me to actually invest in the products.

In conclusion, I believe that the only answer to making an impact among consumers when it comes to efficiently communicating product claims is standardization. Through simplifying product claims into ONE universal methodology that consumers are better able to comprehend, I believe that shifts toward a more sustainable world will excel. While there are some limitations to the concept of standardization, I believe that it is those boundaries that will enable the true transparency of a company. In standardizing product claims, the customer is being served rather than the reputation of one company over another. In the end, this will benefit the company’s success since the customer is ultimately who drives the business. Unmasking the realities of brands and products of today is going to constitute a much more profitable industry.

High Hopes for the Future of Cotton

It’s just a basic t-shirt, right? As an avid t-shirt wearer, I had somewhat of an idea as to the amount of work that went into constructing this simple and very comfortable apparel item. However, after reading The Sustainability of Cotton and viewing a couple of different videos featuring cotton production methods online, I came to the realization of how harmful my basic t-shirt was on the environment as well as on the individuals who contributed to its creation. When I think about it, there are similar misconceptions around multiple facets of life. As the cliché goes, “you can’t judge a book by its cover”. And it is the truth! It is difficult to measure the hardships of cotton cultivation until someone explains them to you, or you learn about them in a class such as this one. Fortunately, the future of cotton seems to be a bright one.

Reading The Sustainability of Cotton brought to my attention many pressing issues that cotton producers experience, as well as what the environment experiences. Some of the issues mentioned include irrigation, fertilizers, pesticides, pests and diseases, and human impact.  All of which, if taken into consideration, make a significant difference between conventional and organic cotton growing methods. One issue that I found myself wanting to know more about was irrigated cotton cultivation. I was shocked to read about how much water is required for the farming and processing of cotton. According to the reading, it takes 10,000-17,000 liters of water to produce 1 kilogram of cotton lint. To put it into perspective, that is equal to 2,642 gallons, which is enough to fill close to 30 standard-sized bathtubs of water! (answers.com; answers.yahoo.com). In order for irrigation to be applied, many environmental sacrifices have to be made. This includes diverting rivers, constructing dams, and pumping water up from the soil. While there are prospective innovations to more efficient irrigating techniques, the high investment costs bring cotton producers to a halt. In order to avoid spending a fortune and sacrificing higher profits, farmers have to pay attention to the quality and quantity of the water being used, and be more efficient overall as much as possible.

The Cotton, Inc. website did a great job in lifting my spirits and informing me of the current conservation methods being enforced today. The video “Cotton & Water: White, Blue and Green” pointed out that apparently, there is a recent “spark” being seen within cotton farmers as they are being driven to find creative ways to conserve their water usage. In another video titled “Protecting and Preserving Soil with Today’s Cotton-Growing Techniques”, I learned about a new “conservation tillage” technology where instead of consistently plowing the farm fields, no tilling is involved and a new residue is planted. This new residue has many benefits not only in water conservation, but in reducing soil erosion as well. It makes more water available for plants because of its ability to soak up the rainfall and spread it more efficiently across the crops. It would be great if these conservation methods showed successful results, but it is ultimately up to the farmer as to whether or not they will be practiced.

The valuable information presented in the reading and the short videos led me to form the opinion that the current cultivation methods of cotton are not sustainable at all. However, I do see definite potential in the future for sustainability to be better enforced. This will ONLY occur if the more efficient methods are actually adopted and correctly performed by farmers. Consumers can also take part in this effort by being more aware of the production history of the garments that they purchase. So in conclusion, your t-shirt isn’t basic at all! However, the required steps to be more sustainable in producing your t-shirt CAN become basic and simple if we choose to exert the needed effort.  

Naturally? Not Necessarily.

It is a common misperception among those both within and outside of the apparel industry, that natural fiber production is the answer to ending the environmental sustainability issues faced today. The hidden truth however, is that there really isn’t a favorable direction to go when it comes to deciding which material to use for textile fiber production. As an apparel designer and an avid synthetic material user, I was taken aback when I overheard a fellow coworker discussing the negative impacts that synthetic materials have on the environment. Her comments prompted me to do some research on my own to prove to her that natural materials were not as “pure” as she insisted that they were. I also wanted to gain insight into possible ways that I could produce my garments with a more diverse mindset, incorporating the idea of change, in hopes to inspire my consumers to do the same. Kate Fletcher made some great comparisons in the first chapter of Sustainable Fashion and Textiles, while Textile Exchange’s Charline Ducas also made some strong points as far as the realities of the production and consumption of the two materials.

As I read through Sustainable Fashion and Textiles, I was surprised to learn that it is not ONE specific textile that will lessen the effects on the environment, but rather the LACK of diversity of the materials used. The fact that material diversity is a concept that is lacking in garment production surprised me, as I was convinced that the apparel industry was one of innovations and risks. Apparently, more attention needs to be paid to the use of alternative, more resourceful fibers of a garment and less to a particular look or style of a garment. The reading is not promoting that cotton and polyester, or the “big two fibers”, be cut out of fiber production completely. Instead, Fletcher believes that more work should be done to incorporate more environmental-friendly fibers within the production process. Essentially, it is time for the “underdogs” of fibers to shine!

Synthetic fiber processing is just as harmful as natural fiber processing, according to Fletcher’s assessment of sustainability impacts. Even though 1 kilogram of cotton draws on 8,000 liters of water while 1 kilogram of polyester uses little or no water, polyester does consume twice the energy that is needed to make the same amount of cotton. The reading continues to discuss the range of natural fibers that exist, which include cotton, wool, silk, and linen. Each of these natural fibers are similar in their harm done to the environment, as they all require excessive amounts of water, pesticides, and fertilizers to ensure accurate processing. In comparison, the manufactured fibers mentioned include polyester, nylon, acrylic, and viscose. Once again, high energy consumption, chemical usage, and pollution indexes resulting from generated air emissions are necessary in ensuring accurate processing of these fibers. There are many alternatives listed that can be used in replacement of both the natural and manufactured fibers, but the most impact is attributed to consumer care. Again, by extending ways to improve harmful environmental impacts for BOTH producers and consumers, we are better able to view these issues as a “whole” unified problem. Therefore, we all need to work together on each end to elicit a change.

Textile Exchange’s Charline Ducas also emphasized a stronger focus on improving the impacts of fibers on the environment. She discussed six “trends” that are currently being assessed in order to address these harmful influences, one of which is titled “doing more from less”. This trend highlighted how producers can be more clever in using less water, energy, and chemicals. According to Ducas, the chemical industry is practicing such a change by lessening the amount of indigo used in denim production. A new “Clariant” technology for denim apparently uses 92% less water, 30% less energy, and 87% less cotton waste! Utilizing this technology can save so many of our natural resources while reducing the amount of harm that is done simply by producing one pair of jeans. When you view the cost of improvements through percentages, it is easier to understand how much of a change can be made by researching alternatives in production. I enjoyed the last bit of information that Ducas shared in the video, which was that solutions are available if we just take the time to adopt them into our everyday lives! Collaboration between designers and supply chains are also deemed as vital in promoting such solutions, which means that a change in mindset must also be made to achieve success.

Both Sustainable Fashion and Textiles and Charline Ducas extend very insightful information regarding the natural vs. synthetic conundrum currently being reviewed. In my opinion, making a decision between choosing a natural fiber or a synthetic fiber shouldn’t generate much of a “headache” to whoever is doing the picking, because it is clear that both are equally at fault for the sustainability issues we are facing today. While incorporating some of the mentioned fiber alternatives would make a world of economic difference, it is also important that the consumer do everything in their power to extend the use of their garment. Inspiration to do so however, comes from the careful sustainability efforts used in the production phase by the fiber grower or designer. So my question to you is do you agree with the fact that the environmental impacts should be a two-sided approach? In my opinion, this continual system of push and pull efforts will be sure to bring about a change within the apparel industry, regardless of whether a product is made naturally or synthetically. And even though my coworker and I are on different “fiber teams”, at least now she can realize that changes need to be made by every member of both teams.

Fashion Intervention 101

As an apparel merchandising major studying the industry, it is apparent that current fashion designers are those who are focused on one thing: providing the public with the most “cutting-edge” looks and outfit concepts for the future. Modern-day “fashionistas” pry themselves on adopting these runway styles, as well as religiously keeping up with the most recent fashion magazine articles to learn what the color of next season will be, or which skirt length is going to be the up-and-coming statement piece according to what celebrities have been seen sporting on Madison Avenue. If trends straight off of a runway or street corner can be so quickly adopted by the public, then how come the concept of sustainable fashions has become one that seems to be so difficult to enforce upon consumers? Is it laziness or lack of interest? Due to the current uneasy economy, I am sure that consumers’ interests on this concept would be sparked if they knew just how much money they could save on apparel products if the appropriate sustainable measures were taken to produce them. The reports of this week titled, Fashioning Sustainability and Pricing Environmental Impacts: A Tale of Two T-shirts, each pointed out recommendations for improving garment production which I believe would bring about great change in the apparel industry if adopted.

Fashioning Sustainability suggested numerous solutions to some of the problems found in garment production that seem to have extreme impacts on the environment. These issues include fashion consumption, cotton production, working conditions, energy consumption, chemical exposure, unsustainable fibers affecting degradation, fashion miles, and animal cruelty. In addition to highlighting these problems, the report gave multiple actions that can be taken to reduce the harmful effects of production on the environment. They include options such as raising awareness amongst key industry players, promoting transparent supply chains, developing international trade standards, offering supply chains with the necessary training and support, empowering consumers to practice better care methods, and convincing designers to incorporate sustainability into their projects. As I read the report’s thoughts on action steps to take, I noticed the simplicity of them all. Is it really as simple as raising awareness of the impact that recycling has on clothing disposal? We all know the positive effects of recycling, but the number of those who actually participate is way lower than it should be. That being said, would consumers really take the increased awareness to heart and actually adopt a new lifestyle that included going out of the way to protect the environment? While it seems easy, I believe that most consumers ultimately will not have the desire to take the time out of their already demanding schedules to follow some of the action steps mentioned, unless a law required it. However if garment producers more openly became aware of the importance of conserving resources, I believe that significant change could be made. If production sustainability were taken more seriously, consumption sustainability would be equally as important in the apparel industry.

Last week’s Ecosystem Millennium Assessment touched on some “promising interventions” that I noticed related to the action steps mentioned in Fashioning Sustainability. One of the first interventions listed in the ESMA was the elimination of harmful subsidies where excessive use of harmful fertilizers and pesticides occurs. This relates directly to the concept in FS of improving fiber quality, which will in turn decrease the harms of degradation on the environment. ESMA went on to mention possible taxes or user fees being placed on activities of production that included “external” costs, such as the excessive use of nutrients that may harm the ecosystem. This partnered with the action FS promoted, which was developing international trade standards. By ensuring fair prices policies among garment producers worldwide, there would be more of a desire to save money which would in turn, promote less environmental harm. Another intervention proposed by the ESMA was to educate resource managers on the characteristics and history of a product being used in the line of production. The same action steps were also discussed in FS as the idea of transparency and empowerment of consumers. Through tracing the origins of the stock being used, garment producers would be better able to inform consumers of what exactly they are buying and the amount of harm that was imposed on the environment during the production process. Another important intervention that the ESMA discussed were the endless methods that garment producers as well as designers could utilize in order to make better sustainability decisions. As pointed out in FS, these people play the key roles in actually promoting sustainable solutions for clothing and creating fashions that appeal to the ultimate consumer in a stylish and fashionable way. Through helping the production team make better decisions as far as what methods to take in creating a garment that will not do as much harm to the environment, the end consumer can be equally as inspired to do the same, starting a cycle of sustainability.

Another efficient method to measure environmental impact from garment production was researched in Pricing Environmental Impacts: A Tale of Two T-Shirts. In the reading, the techniques of life-cycle analysis have been translated into monetary costs to be more easily understood by decision makers. Because some environmental impacts cannot be given an exact price and therefore are not measurable, they are deemed “externalities” within this report. The externalities, along with other production cost “drivers”, were paired with an estimated cost per stage through activity-based costing. The report concluded that for both conventional and organic cotton t-shirts, that the stage with the greatest environmental impact is consumer care, followed by the actual growing of cotton fiber, and then the transportation of materials and garments. Overall, I enjoyed reading this report because it was easier to picture the harmful effects on the environment in number form. Since I am more of a visual person, I appreciated the opportunity to compare and contrast the different methods of producing a basic t-shirt while clearly taking note of the “price” difference in production on the environment. I believe that this method to enhance the impacts of garment production has a chance of being an extremely successful addition to the solutions mentioned in both Fashioning Sustainability and the ESMA.

To conclude my fashion intervention, I can’t help but wonder what future steps will be taken in the effort to increase apparel sustainability awareness among designers as well as consumers. There is already so much information out there just waiting to be adopted and put into action, and I’m sure that as the world becomes accustomed to more “green” lifestyles there will be an increase in the research of the subject matter. After the readings this week, I actually found myself more interested in the subject of garment sustainability than I ever have been before. I had no idea that simply by switching from conventional to organic cotton t-shirts, I could save my environment billions of dollars. What other ways are there besides reading these lengthy reports that we can illicit this same realization onto consumers? Do you think that by the time we peak within the industry, sustainability will be an even bigger issue being addressed? And are these “environmental impacts” really a threat to the future of the ecosystem? I suppose that only time will tell.  

Save the Trees, Please!

We all know that trees are a HUGE source of supplying many of the items that we use on a daily basis, making them very critical links to the life chain of our planet. However, the growing population each year is adding more and more pressure to the thousands of acres of rainforests being violently harvested and depleted every single day. Raising awareness on the severity of this situation is crucial if we plan to replenish our earth with the nutrients necessary for its ultimate survival. I chose to answer the topic question, “Are the environmental problems we face today new?”, because after going through the readings and researching online articles, I realized that the deforestation issue has been one that seems to be repeatedly pushed aside. I believe that NOW is the time to give this topic the attention it deserves so we can do everything in our power to save the trees!

According to the online source, FAO NEWSROOM, deforestation is actually the cause of the 25-30% of greenhouse gases released into the atmosphere each year, not the common assumption of oil and gas emissions. The article went on to explain that trees are 50% carbon, which is released back into the air when they are felled or burned. It is estimated by the organization that some 13 million forests worldwide are lost every year, with Africa, Latin America, and Southeast Asia prime target areas. This is where the reading “Lessons of Easter Island” came in for me. Since Easter Island is located off of the coast of Latin America, it made sense as to why deforestation was and is such an issue, especially in the context of the story of the islanders.

With settlement starting to begin in the fifth century, the Polynesians began to develop methods of survival on the island. This also included making adjustments based off of what the island did and didn’t offer, such as fewer species of plants and animals, which the Polynesian culture had previously been used to. Deforestation of the island began as the population hit its peak in 1550, resulting in trees needing to cut down to provide clearings for agriculture, fuel for heating and cooking, construction material for household goods, pole and thatch houses and canoes for fishing. The trees then proceeded to be the only possible way to transport the culture’s “ahu” statues to ceremonial sites, which was a huge part of the Polynesians’ social beliefs. Throughout both processes of consistently needing to use the trees for one reason or another, the island was almost completely deforested by 1600. This proves that deforestation has been a problem for a much longer period of time than we all thought!

The “Ecosystems and Human Well-Being” readings confirmed my thoughts by bringing up information pertinent to present day. On page 4, it discusses that there has more recently been dramatic growth in the demand for food, water, timber, fiber, and fuel, which made me think back to the Easter Islanders. Once again, world population doubled between 1960 and 2000, causing the increase in the importance of these resources for human survival. While deforestation is still a direct result of this process, today we have developed a better use of new technologies and service management that are lowering the amount of harmful effects associated with the clearing of trees.

After reading about the many consequences of deforestation through the readings, I was interested in finding out if there were actual benefits of deforestation. There were more than I thought there would be, but the cons definitely outweighed the pros. On an online source titled Benefits of Deforestation written by Ezine Articles, it states that the economic gains are easy to spot. These include the number of jobs associated with cutting down lumber, the usefulness we get out of using lumber, the amount of land that becomes available for farmers, as well as the potential growth our society has by making cleared areas available. Houses, buildings, offices, and any type of urbanization would be impossible without deforestation!

So my question to you all is this: what do YOU think about the pros and cons of deforestation? Can we ever have a true balance between the good for society and the good for the environment? It is a huge environmental problem that we face today and have faced for hundreds of years, but is it ever really going to stop if our society continues to revolutionize and expand? While there are many more environmental problems to focus on, deforestation is something that affects multiple aspects of society in ways that many don’t ever even realize. Therefore, I am proposing that we do anything and everything that we can to more efficiently make use of our environment WITHOUT harming it.

 So…Save the Trees, Please!